My Travel Blogs

I left my Porto hotel at 7:30 am to walk to the Trindade metro station. To save about 11 kms of walking the first day, I would start my journey at Matosinhos, a beach community about a 30 minute metro ride from Porto. I noticed a couple buying their ticket, with help from a local. I was pretty sure they were also heading out on their Camino. I asked if I could tag along, and they welcomed me to travel with them and also helped me buy my metro ticket. Rosie and Terry are from San Francisco and this is their second Camino walk. We also met a woman and her son from New York who were starting their journey.

At Matosinhos I parted ways with Rosie and Terry as they were going to pick up a few snacks and supplies for their day. I was ready to start walking. I crossed over the River Leca on the Ponte Movel drawbridge then headed west toward the Atlantic Coast. First stop was to get my first “stamp” for my Camino credential from the Matosinhos Tourist Office. Then, there it was…the start of my beautiful Portuguese Coastal Camino (officially Senda Littoral). Here I saw the first “Camino Marker”!

The promenade follows the beach, and the first landmark is a lighthouse – the second tallest one in Portugal – Farol da Boa Nova. This was also the start of a series of boardwalks along the dunes of several beaches.

I loved the little church on the shore and a message on the boardwalk wishing everyone a “good journey” (Bom Caminho). This phrase was shared between walkers all along the path, and many locals would wish us Bom Caminho. Soon I came across the Obelisco da Memoria in memory of the surprise landing of liberal troops commanded by Dom Pedro IV in 1832 who took on the absolutist army in Porto.

The next several kilometres give spectacular views of the coastline. I was intrigued by the exercise equipment along the beaches…and what a great place for a lounger! The scallop shell is a common symbol for the Camino. You can read about the meaning of it for pilgrims here: https://www.caminoadventures.com/blog/scallop-shell/#The%20Scallop%20Shell%20Symbol%20Today

I continued to enjoy the ocean breeze and nautical views, through the area of Labruge. I stopped for a coffee, sitting at a seat at a restaurant at the beach waiting for service. I didn’t realize that I should go in to order!! Learning moment.

The next area of interest was Vila Cha. I passed by the fisherman houses with all the fishing gear on the beach. Met a couple of chill doggos resting in the shade. I found a little café (Café Sandra) in the village and enjoyed a “café con leite” with a pastry. The owner and I managed to communicate just fine with my elementary Portuguese!

I was very surprised to see cyclists on the boardwalk and wondered if some of the damage on the planks was a result of this. Some cyclists were quite rude – not giving any warning that they would pass. And in some sections, they needed to carry their bikes up flights of stairs.

I was intrigued by the little beach I came across…kinda hippy-ish!

Walking along the boardwalks led to an interesting town – the village of Louca. I rested for a while on a bench by the ocean, taking my shoes off for a while. I met three British couples who were travelling in Campervans (very popular along the coast). They said to make sure to enjoy the city of Baiona when I got there, and wished me Bom Caminho.

Continuing on the path, I came to Mindelo. There is an Ornithological Reserve behind this beach, which sounded really interesting, but I walked along the boardwalk. A little further a section was totally broken and the sand dunes had shifted to completely cover the boardwalk . Yes, there was quite a bit of sand in my shoes after this section!

I could see that I was approaching Vila do Conde, my destination for the day. I couldn’t believe it! I had already walked almost 20 kms, with another 4 kms to go. The day was going by so quickly! And I felt great – feet a little sore but still lots of energy left. The priest at the little church was outside, encouraging pilgrims to come in an get a stamp for their credential. After the church, I crossed the bridge over the River Ave into the town and noticed the lovely river front.

I found my hotel (Hotel Brazao) and checked in. After a little rest, I decided to explore the town. There is a Roman aqueduct behind the town, and a monastery on the hill overlooking the town and river. The Aqueduct of Santa Clara is the second largest Portuguese aqueduct system. Built between 1626 and 1714, it included 999 arches stretching for 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) from the spring of Terroso to the Convent of Santa Clara.

I also wandered along the river and found a little restaurant to have an early dinner on their patio.

Back to the hotel to rest up for the next leg.

Expected kms for the day – 24.

Total completed – 28.5 kms and 37,895 steps!

Good night!

I thought I would wake up sore and tired…but that was not the case. I was excited to start the day. I packed up my bag and went downstairs for breakfast. Lots of selection including yoghurt, fruit, eggs, yummy bread, cheese and meat. I made a little sandwich to take on the trail. I am ready to walk!

I was a little nervous leaving as I wasn’t sure which direction to start out. I saw another pilgrim walking and followed along. Soon, I found the yellow arrows. Good thing, ’cause I would have headed in the wrong direction! I also have an app called Buen Camino which shows where you are on the trail. It has saved me from getting lost a few times during the week. When I passed a couple of women on the streets, they were also worried they were going the wrong way. But with the app, I encouraged them to follow me…if we got lost, we would at least be together!

As I walked through the town, near the high school, I came across this sculpture in a roundabout!

It didn’t take long to get to the next town of Poava de Varzim. The streets were quiet, so it was easy to navigate.

This is a newer community right on the beach. Stopped for a café con leite along the promenade and continued on the path. There were many restaurants and bars along the beach (not open so early in the morning), and towers of apartments across the street.

Next area is A Ver-o-Mar. The scenery continues to be amazing.

More beach views before coming to the next town of Agucadoura where I found an old windmill in a backyard and beautiful tile work on a house. The path continues on to Praia de Estela and another decommissioned windmill along the beach. In a little while, more sand dunes. Not many pilgrims on the path today. It is mostly a solitary walk and I don’t mind. Time to enjoy the views and be grateful for my life.

After more coastal walking the path changes to an inland path. It is a nice change. A combination of dirt roads and boardwalks alongside a golf course and small farms.

The next town is Apulia and I pass by the church, some left-over Christmas decorations, an orange tree, grapevines and walk a shady trail towards the town of Fao.

The town of Fao is just before the destination of today, Esposende, which is across the Cadavo River via the Bridge of D. Luis Filipe, built in 1892. Before reaching the bridge, there are views of Senhor Bom Jesus of Fao Monastery and a local street. Again, I am surprised at how quickly the day went by.

Esposende is a beautiful beach town, on an estuary where the waters are filled with para-sailors during the day. The hotel was at the farthest end and I thought I had missed it, but two older Portugese men directed me to the hotel, using sign language. All the locals I have met are so friendly. The hotel is beautiful (Hotel Sauve Mar) with a lovely pool (which I didn’t use). My little room actually had a little balcony so I was able to wash some clothes and put them outside to dry. Although I had a long day of walking, I knew I had to get some more Vaseline for my feet to prevent blisters. So I walked back to the main part of town and found a pharmacy, then a produce store to buy some fruit for the next day’s walk.

I walked along the promenade on the way back to the hotel and stopped for a late lunch (early dinner) at a restaurant along the estuary where I watched the para-sailors. Back to the hotel for a little rest. I wanted to see a few other sites in the evening and perhaps catch the sunset. On my way out, I heard someone call my name. It was Rosie (who I met in Porto). She and Terry were staying at the same hotel and were going for dinner as it was her birthday. We agreed to meet at breakfast.

I wandered along the estuary and down to the beach. It was a beautiful evening. Managed to get a few good shots, then headed back to the hotel for a good rest. It will be another long walking day tomorrow.

Anticipated distance Vila do Conde to Esposende: 23.5 kms.

Actual walk including walking back to town centre and exploring the town: 32.6 kms Total steps 44,808

EEsposende to Viana do Castelo

After a good sleep, I was ready to get on the trail again. I sat with Rosie and Terry for breakfast and again made a little sandwich for a snack. We met outside the hotel and started on the path, taking a morning picture on each other’s phone. You can see that I have been carrying my camera in a Cotton brand carrier…it was always ready for me to snap the photos. And the hat was a good idea for the hot and sometimes windy weather along the coast.

From Esposende, the path led us inland past a small chapel then two churches in the surrounding neighbourhoods.

We continue up and downhill through small communities and admiring the tile work and shrines along the way. I walked a short while with a woman from Ontario, while her husband and Terry continued on ahead of us.

This day is much different from the previous two day along the coast. Country paths and roads, small churches, cobblestones…just a great variety. Rosie and Terry are faster walkers than me, so I slowed down a bit to enjoy the journey. The statue of Sao Tiago (below) conveys a message of courage, faith and hope – very relevant to the pilgrims of the Camino.

You may wonder why there are some arrows in blue and some in yellow pointing in different directions. The yellow arrows point the way to Santiago de Compostela, the destination for most on this Camino. The blue arrows point the way to Fatima in central Portugal – a different Camino destination.

From this point, the trail enters a forested area with a rocky path up and down a hill. I had to walk carefully here. At the bottom of the trail a beautiful scene emerges. The River Neiva with a stone pontoon bridge and small falls. You can see one pilgrim took advantage to cool off her feet in the river.

Today was a hotter day than the past two, and definitely more uphill climbing. I passed by an interestingly decorated entrance to an Albergue (hostel). Part way up a long hill, many walkers stopped for a rest and shade under the broom trees by the local church.

I continued uphill through another forested area, thankful for the shade. On the downhill, there was a refreshment stand…cold drinks, food, fruit. I believe it is a local out there supporting the walkers and pilgrims. People pay by donation. I picked up a banana for some needed potassium and continued along.

A while later, another church and a cemetery with a small picnic spot adjacent to it. I found Rosie and Terry resting here and enjoying their lunch. I also rested here, ate my lunch and refilled my water bottle at the water tap (water is safe to drink, unless marked otherwise in Portugal). Rosie and Terry had already left and I saw a couple of men coming up the hill. I let them know there was a water tap. Their reply…”We are German, we drink beer not water!!” Said jokingly…but I think they were serious!.

After this, the path led to another country road through the village of Chafe. At one point, I noticed that the two German men had missed an arrow and were heading in the wrong direction (maybe they were looking for a beer?). They thanked me and insisted on taking my picture! A while later I walked with a woman from Vancouver Island. She mentioned that the Germans were having beer at the little refreshment stand earlier on!

I’m now close to today’s destination – Vianna do Costelo. Down the hill, I can see the bridge across the Lima River and the Santa Lucia church high up on the hill. The Eiffel bridge across the river is 900 meters long and the sidewalk is not wide! It was built by Gustav Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame). Many are afraid to walk across this bridge…you are very close to cars, buses and trucks. It was fine for me. On the other side of the bridge, I caught up with Rosie and Terry to navigate to our lodging for the night, Hotel Laranjeira.

After a rest (and daily laundry), I met Rosie and Terry to have a bite to eat (and a glass of wine) in the town. We all wanted to see the views from Santuario De Santa Luzia at the top the mountain. We could have walked up the 700 stairs…oh wait, no we couldn’t after a long day of walking. The funicular was not operational, so taxi was the best way to get there. It did not disappoint! Unfortunately, we didn’t have long inside the church as it was about to close.

After arriving back at the hotel, I put my walking shoes on to explore this medevial city. So many interesting things to see. Because of the time spent walking every day, museums and other points of interest are closed, so I enjoy getting the vibe of the city by strolling through the streets. Disappointed that I couldn’t see the Museu de Traje (Costume Museum). I am sure that would have been interesting. But I did find a Tupperware store! And I love the doors in Europe…

I discovered this legend about the name of Vianna do Castello:

About the name Viana do Castelo, legend has it that there was a big castle and people liked to stare at it, admiring its beauty until some of them noticed that a princess used to sit by the window.
She was a beautiful girl, with bright eyes and long hair with two braids. The princess didn’t like to be seen and so she hid herself every time someone was looking at the castle and, because of that, it was a “privilege” to gaze at the princess. Whenever someone saw her, they’d say “Eu vi Ana no Castelo!” (literally “I saw Ana of the castle!”). Legend has it that this is how the name of the city first appeared.

Anticipated distance from Esponsende to Viana Do Castelo – 26.2 kms.

Actual distance walked today – 30.6 km 42,667 steps.

Three long but exhilarating days so far.

Viana Do Costelo – Vila Praia de Ancora

I am still excited to get up in the morning and get my day started. I went downstairs for breakfast (and as always making an extra sandwich to take with me). Today, I sat with an Australian couple that I had met briefly the night before. I was at the reception desk and they asked about the accommodation – was it nice? I assured them it was. Turns out they have been doing the path in reverse. They started in Santiago de Compostela and are working their way down to the south of Portugal. They were planning to take a couple of months to do this. Really nice people with a positive attitude!

Started the day with a photo taken by Terry (they do a selfie every morning). There are two paths out of Viana do Costello – we chose to take the one by the ocean. The coast is much more rugged now. We passed by the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Agonia on the way out of town. Along the coast, we explored the Forte da Vinha, one of the four forts built between Viana do Castela and Caminho (the last city on the North Coast of Portgual) in the 1600’s to suppress frequent pirate raids. After the fort, Rosie and Terry walked ahead. I was happy to be a little slower and to stop and take photos.

Today was going to be a day of windmills (none active), and they started appearing along the coast around Areosa. Interestingly, there were modern wind turbines on the hills nearby. Further along the coast there was a confusing trail (that I finally figured out) up a hill to a property with three more windmills. Then the path meandered along the coast through scrubby heather and other plant life.

Further along the coast there was a confusing trail (that I finally figured out) up a hill to a property with three more windmills near Carreco. Then the path meandered along the coast through scrubby heather and other plant life. Parts of this section reminded me of the Oregon coast. (click on the arrows below to scroll t

The path headed inland for a while with a little change of scenery. I caught up to Rosie and Terry again and walked with them for a little while.

In a few kilometers, we are back on the path by the ocean, sand dunes and nearing the town of Vila Praia de Ancora.

The entrance to the town was a little whimsical. It took a little while to find my hotel (Hotel Meira) as the train runs through the middle of this little beach town! I have to admit I struggled today. The distance was much shorter that the previous days, but I was tired and perhaps a little dehydrated.

Expected distance today 18.3 km. Actual distance walked 21.7 – 28,901 steps

Vila Praia de Ancora – A Guarda (Spain)

Today is the last day of my Camino journey in Portugal. After breakfast at the hotel, I walked to the Ancora beach for one last look. The surfers were already in the water. As I started out of town, I connected with Rosie and Terry again and we took our morning photos! It was interesting to see the benches and swings along the water.

Once again, the coast is quite rugged. Tidal pools that served as salt harvesting sites. A seaside chapel. Rows of rocks and stones along the land that could have defined property and villages from many centuries ago.

We came across a small memorial within a large rock. I had been looking for a site to place my own memorial to my grand-niece Taylor. I have been thinking of her throughout this journey and felt this is the spot where I can leave my memorial ribbon. I hope you enjoy the views, Taylor. We miss you so much.

It was also a time for me to reflect on other losses over the years – my sisters Barb and Donna and their spouses Fred and Bill, my friends Beth and Lynne – all who left us much too soon. I feel so fortunate to have my health and to be able to take time to enjoy what brings joy in my life – family, friends, travel.

The path continues along the coast and the triangle mountain on the horizon gets a little bigger. This is Mount Santa Tegra in Spain. The destination for the day is on the other side. The next short stage is on a shady path leading to the Minho River flowing into the Atlantic at the town of Caminha.

At Caminha most people will cross the Minho River over to Spain. There is an overland path crossing a bridge to the east, but that would add about 25 kms to the day. The boat sounds like a much better option. In the past, a ferry crossed the river, but that was discontinued in about 2019. I have heard that the river needs to be dredged in order for the ferry to operate again. At the ferry terminal we purchase a 6 Euro ticket and take a coffee break. Rosie and Terry are there, along with with two Australian men from the Sydney area. The 5 of us board a little boat for the 5 minute ride to the other side.

With two ways to walk to A Guarda, the 5 of us choose to walk up and over the mountain rather than along the coast…although we did loose our way temporarily. On our detour, we found a greeter (a dog on top of the fence). He was friendly. We back tracked and found the marker to direct us to A Guarda.

After about a 3.5 km climb, we descended into A Guarda. I found my hotel and was able to check in early (it was about noon). With my daily laundry done, I headed out to explore the town and have some lunch on the harbour. The plaza close to my hotel featured benches and trees decorated with crocheted squares, apparently made by the older women of the town.

After a lunch on a patio beside the harbour, I continued to explore the town. It was Sunday, so the museums and shops were not open today.

With the daily walk being fairly short today, I decided to walk along the coastal path for some different views of the town. I heard that there were Celtic and Roman ruins at the top of the mountain, but also heard that the trail was quite steep. I wasn’t willing to tackle that on my own.

Back to the hotel for a little rest. In Portugal, restaurants sometimes closed about 3 pm then re-opened for dinner at 7:30 or 8:00. In Spain this became more of the norm. Around 7 I walked down to Port Street on the Harbour where most of the restaurants were located. I could see groups of people on the street and I felt a little intimidated to find a place for dinner. I was walking back up towards my hotel when I ran into Rosie and Terry who were just heading out for dinner. They invited me to join them. I remembered seeing a tapas restaurant just a little beyond the “restaurant row” and up a little hill. That’s where we had a delicious dinner with a nice Spanish wine, overlooking the Atlantic. It is the first time I tasted octopus and grilled padron peppers…so good. Sorry…didn’t take a photo!

Expected distance today 13 km. Actual distance walked 27.8 km – 36,459 steps.

A Guarda to Oia (Spain)

The day didn’t start as well as most other days on the path. The person at the hotel desk the day before indicated breakfast was offered at 7:30 am so I was packed and downstairs at that time. At 8 am, a woman showed up and offered a piece of cake and other sweets that were pre-packaged. All other accommodation offered a variety of food for breakfast including fresh fruit, juice, meats and cheeses, fresh bread. At least the coffee was good! And the room was fine – clean, comfortable and lots of hot water.

So off I went, planning to stop at a café down the path. Walking through the city to the coastal path I stopped by a church with an interesting statue outside. I found a camino marker that was pointing the wrong way! Perhaps it was for an alternate path. Walking by the camper vans parked along the beach, I thought “What a beautiful view to wake up to”.

The coast is very rugged along here, and parts of the path quite rugged too! You can see the salt water pools built into the rocky shoreline.

The path continued uphill for a while, past a little picnic site, through the trees and beside a meditation garden.

When the path led back to the coast, I was mesmerized by the group of fishers (?) standing on a rocky island. I wondered how they got on the rock and how they would get off. How do they not get knocked off when the waves hit? I think I watched them for about 15 minutes from different vantage points. They may be hard to see in these photos.

Further down the path, I came across a man and woman sitting in chairs beside the path overlooking the ocean. It appeared that the chairs had been set out by locals for the use of pilgrims. This Australian couple who were probably in their mid- to late-60s were resting. During our chat, the man commented that this was their fourth Camino, then his tired wife looked at me at said, “And it is my last!”. I saw them a few times over the next two days…she didn’t look very happy. I think she was struggling with the physical demands.

Slowly the coast views changed to residential and farm views as I neared Oia, the stop for the day. The weather was very warm, hovering about 26 degrees with just a light ocean breeze. I made sure to drink lots of water.

Entering Oia, I walked through small streets with houses and restaurants, then it opened up to a small harbour with the large monastery of Santa Maria Real built in the 12th century.  It was not only a monastery, but also been a school, a palace, and a jail during civil war. It has been designated as a National Monument.

The path continued by the ocean, through farmland. At times, you could see the stone fences from centuries ago. And the little hut by the beach is actually a grainary storage, likely for livestock feed.

The hotel was actually in the next little town, which required walking along the road for a couple of kilometers. I walked past a hotel with two beautiful pools…hoping that is where I would be staying, but it was not to be.

After checking into my hotel, I noticed that I left my converter at the previous hotel. It was going to be difficult to charge my phone, although I knew I could use the USB at the back of the TV. I asked the young woman at the desk if they had a North American – European converter. She thought that would be a great idea, however, she didn’t think they had one. I told her I would make do.

I went to a local café for some lunch (never did stop at a café along the way for breakfast) and enjoyed a cold beer. After, I walked through the little town and back along the coast for a while. When I returned to the hotel about 2 hours later, the young woman at the desk had a big smile on her face. She had located a converter for me to use! Yay!

There were not many eating choices in this little community, and I had missed the grocery store’s open hours. After a rest, I went back to the same cafe for a light dinner and a glass of wine. The people were very friendly there.

I was starting to feel a little sad as tomorrow would be the last day for me on the path.

Expected distance today: 12.6 km

Actual distance walked: 24.7 km 33,637 Steps

This is my last day on the path. It starts as most do, with breakfast at the hotel to start the day.

I need to backtrack about 300 meters to the path which winds through the small town. I find some interesting sites along the way.

Near a small beach on the outskirts I see two women stopped on the bridge. There is a horse (not the ones in the picture above) lying in the sand where a stream comes out to the ocean. It seems that the horse is struggling and hardly breathing…we don’t know what to do. Then suddenly she rolls over…and scratches her back in the sand, then stands up. Phew…

The two women are from Nova Scotia. We chatted for a while, then I headed out on my own. Back on the path – beautiful yet rugged coastline. A few kilometers later I decide to stop for a coffee. The two Canadians (Anne and Cheryl) also come in and invite me to join them. We had a great chat and headed out together – as it turned out – for the rest of the way to Baiona.

Soon we are leaving sight of the coast and heading uphill. I had read that you can see the deep ruts in the stones from the carts going up to the villages on the hills centuries ago. We found evidence of that. Some nice views on our uphill trek.

At the top of the uphill climb, we had a little rest. I saw the Australian couple, and the woman was still struggling. They had another 5 days to go. Anne was suffering from sore feet and some blisters. I offered to give her some of my “Hikers Wool” to use on her hot spots. This is a great product from New Zealand. Because it is natural sheep’s wool, the lanolin soothes the sore spots on your feet. Anne said a little later that her feet felt better.

The downhill toward Baiona was not steep and followed roads through a couple of neighbourhoods. We found an interesting water fountain, encased by a structure made of diagonal slices of wood. Amazing craftmanship Then a building with scallops shell decorations in tribute to the Camino.

When we saw the big church, we knew we had arrived in Baiona. The hotel (El Mosquito) was easy to find. The three of us decided to have lunch together, then Anne and Cheryl would continue for another 3 kms to their accommodation. Found a nice restaurant and ordered some tapas. Neither of them had tasted octopus, so that was one of the dishes. Cheryl and I enjoyed a beer as well. I gave Anne the rest of my hikers wool, as she could make good use of it over the next few days on their way to Santiago de Compostella.

We saw a cute shop on the way to the restaurant that Cheryl wanted to go back to. They had some scarves and clothes in her favourite colours – orange and green. Unfortunately, the shop was closed when we went back. So we said our goodbyes and promises to keep in touch.

I checked into my hotel, had a little rest and booked my train ticket from Vigo back to Porto online for the next morning. My first order of business was to buy a plug adapter to replace the one I left behind in A Guarda. The young man at the desk gave me some directions to a store, so off I went! Unfortunately, that store didn’t have the correct adapter, but they did direct me to another store just two blocks away. Success! And I was so glad to have Google Translate on my phone because the woman in the store didn’t speak English. I am not sure how I would have asked for a plug adapter without the app!

Now it was time to explore the town. The most prominent attraction is the Fortaleza de Monterreal. The site has been a walled enclosure for over 2000 years and is over 18 hectares but the construction of the fort started in the 12th century and took 4 centuries to complete. It is one of the largest fortifications in Spain. It has a rather dark past (as many forts do) with stories of mass murders and horrific jail conditions. But an interesting fact is that Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon in Spanish), sailed the La Pinta into this harbour, so Baiona was the first place in Europe to hear about the discovery of the Americas. There is a replica La Pinta in the harbour.

The walk around the fortress is beautiful. I walked along the ramparts and past some of the towers. In the centre of the “fort” is a beautiful high-end hotel called the Paradour. Rosie and Terry were staying there. We had hoped to meet for a drink, but the timing just didn’t work out.

After exploring the fort, I walked along the harbour in search of a light dinner. I chose a restaurant just behind my hotel and sat on the street patio. Delicious seafood soup and a glass of Baiona white wine. Suddenly, we could hear thunder and within a few minutes there was a torrential downpour. I had finished the soup, but ran inside with my wine!

Later in the evening, I walked down to the beach to capture the sunset…the last one on this Camino. Such a beautiful evening for my last night on the path. I felt sad, and wished that I was continuing on. Perhaps on another trip…

Expected distance for the day: 17 km.

Actual distance: 21.8 km – 31,986 Steps