Camino Day 1: Porto – Vila do Conde

I left my Porto hotel at 7:30 am to walk to the Trindade metro station. To save about 11 kms of walking the first day, I would start my journey at Matosinhos, a beach community about a 30 minute metro ride from Porto. I noticed a couple buying their ticket, with help from a local. I was pretty sure they were also heading out on their Camino. I asked if I could tag along, and they welcomed me to travel with them and also helped me buy my metro ticket. Rosie and Terry are from San Francisco and this is their second Camino walk. We also met a woman and her son from New York who were starting their journey.

At Matosinhos I parted ways with Rosie and Terry as they were going to pick up a few snacks and supplies for their day. I was ready to start walking. I crossed over the River Leca on the Ponte Movel drawbridge then headed west toward the Atlantic Coast. First stop was to get my first “stamp” for my Camino credential from the Matosinhos Tourist Office. Then, there it was…the start of my beautiful Portuguese Coastal Camino (officially Senda Littoral). Here I saw the first “Camino Marker”!

The promenade follows the beach, and the first landmark is a lighthouse – the second tallest one in Portugal – Farol da Boa Nova. This was also the start of a series of boardwalks along the dunes of several beaches.

I loved the little church on the shore and a message on the boardwalk wishing everyone a “good journey” (Bom Caminho). This phrase was shared between walkers all along the path, and many locals would wish us Bom Caminho. Soon I came across the Obelisco da Memoria in memory of the surprise landing of liberal troops commanded by Dom Pedro IV in 1832 who took on the absolutist army in Porto.

The next several kilometres give spectacular views of the coastline. I was intrigued by the exercise equipment along the beaches…and what a great place for a lounger! The scallop shell is a common symbol for the Camino. You can read about the meaning of it for pilgrims here: https://www.caminoadventures.com/blog/scallop-shell/#The%20Scallop%20Shell%20Symbol%20Today

I continued to enjoy the ocean breeze and nautical views, through the area of Labruge. I stopped for a coffee, sitting at a seat at a restaurant at the beach waiting for service. I didn’t realize that I should go in to order!! Learning moment.

The next area of interest was Vila Cha. I passed by the fisherman houses with all the fishing gear on the beach. Met a couple of chill doggos resting in the shade. I found a little café (Café Sandra) in the village and enjoyed a “café con leite” with a pastry. The owner and I managed to communicate just fine with my elementary Portuguese!

I was very surprised to see cyclists on the boardwalk and wondered if some of the damage on the planks was a result of this. Some cyclists were quite rude – not giving any warning that they would pass. And in some sections, they needed to carry their bikes up flights of stairs.

I was intrigued by the little beach I came across…kinda hippy-ish!

Walking along the boardwalks led to an interesting town – the village of Louca. I rested for a while on a bench by the ocean, taking my shoes off for a while. I met three British couples who were travelling in Campervans (very popular along the coast). They said to make sure to enjoy the city of Baiona when I got there, and wished me Bom Caminho.

Continuing on the path, I came to Mindelo. There is an Ornithological Reserve behind this beach, which sounded really interesting, but I walked along the boardwalk. A little further a section was totally broken and the sand dunes had shifted to completely cover the boardwalk . Yes, there was quite a bit of sand in my shoes after this section!

I could see that I was approaching Vila do Conde, my destination for the day. I couldn’t believe it! I had already walked almost 20 kms, with another 4 kms to go. The day was going by so quickly! And I felt great – feet a little sore but still lots of energy left. The priest at the little church was outside, encouraging pilgrims to come in an get a stamp for their credential. After the church, I crossed the bridge over the River Ave into the town and noticed the lovely river front.

I found my hotel (Hotel Brazao) and checked in. After a little rest, I decided to explore the town. There is a Roman aqueduct behind the town, and a monastery on the hill overlooking the town and river. The Aqueduct of Santa Clara is the second largest Portuguese aqueduct system. Built between 1626 and 1714, it included 999 arches stretching for 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) from the spring of Terroso to the Convent of Santa Clara.

I also wandered along the river and found a little restaurant to have an early dinner on their patio.

Back to the hotel to rest up for the next leg.

Expected kms for the day – 24.

Total completed – 28.5 kms and 37,895 steps!

Good night!