Via Francigena – Explore Some More

Italian Adventures – 7 day walk on the Via Francigena

As a follow up to my walking vacation in Portugal last year (completing a section of the Portuguese Camino), I set off to walk a portion of the Via Francegina in Italy, which is shown in the map above.

The Via Francigena is a path from Canterbury, England to Rome. Since medieval times people have made this pilgrimage from various points in Europe to visit the Holy See and the tombs of Peter and Paul. The full path is over 2000 kms. My journey of seven days of hiking about 121 kms through the rolling hills of Tuscany…plus additional mileage of getting lost and wandering the small towns where I stayed overnight!

September 20th: Train from Florence to San Miniato

The train system in Italy is quite easy to navigate. I had one change, then hopped on a bus that dropped me off close to the hotel where I was staying…about 1/2 Km walk…all uphill! While I was waiting at reception to get a question answered, four women had arrived and were checking in. I asked if they were walking the Via Francigena…and that was the start of new friendships and walking buddies for part of the next 7 days! Kathy (from Portland), her sister Pat from Alaska, Dagmar and Robyn both from Seattle (Bainbridge Island) and me became the West Coast Women on the Via! They were walking all the way to Rome.

We went together to investigate this lovely hilltop town. First stop was a glass of wine at a local restaurant on a piazza. Perfect for people watching and enjoying a glass of local wine while we got to know each other. Afterwards we wandered the streets, enjoyed the views and even browsed through a local art gallery. Dinner was at a small but busy restaurant…fresh tigliattina pasta with olive oil and black truffles. It was so good! After dinner we visited the local gelateria for dessert, then stopped by a deli to pick up lunch food for the next couple of days. Finally…back to the hotel for a glass of wine on the patio. Time to turn in for the night to get a good rest for the first day on the path.

The via Francigena leading to San Miniato

VF – Day 1: San Miniato – Gambassi Terme

Total distance walked: 26.4 kms

I met the WCW for breakfast on the patio in the morning. They were getting a ride to a spot “down the path” to avoid some of the road walking. I started out from the hotel. It took me a few tries to find the Via Francigena markers, but finally I was on my way. There was a stunning view of San Miniato, just a little bit down the hill.

The path along the road wasn’t too busy and the views were nice. After an uphill climb the path left the road and followed the ridgeline along olive groves and vineyards. There were some remnants of previous rainy days.

Signs of previous days’ rainfall
Selfie fail!

About 14 kms into the day, I started to get a little tired. Slowed my pace, stopped for lunch (and discovered I had left my deli purchases in the fridge in my hotel room). I took lots of breaks during the remainder of the day. The afternoon was hot and there wasn’t much shade. I rejoiced when the sun went behind a cloud for a few minutes!

would love to know the story of abandoned buildings

Along the fields, I noticed a large yellow bench at the top of a hill. “What’s one more hill,” I thought to myself. Managed the short but steep walk and enjoyed the views. It is a local monument to honour the pilgrims walking the Via Francigena in this area.

Hard to see in this photo but my destination is at the top of the hill in the distance

The last leg of the day wasn’t quite as tough as I though it would be, not really steep but a constant uphill. I arrived at my accommodation, Ostello Sigerico at about 4:15. I almost walked by it as I was expecting it to be in the town of Gambassi Terme. It is located behind the Church of Santa Maria Assunta of Chianni on the hill leading up to the town.

The hostel was basic, but pleasant. It had a lovely courtyard where I enjoyed a cold beer after I had settled in and shared a table with a young man from Germany. He’s an automotive engineer with Porche who is on a multi-month sabatical, solo walking the Via Francegina to Rome. At dinner, I was seated with Max and a retired couple (Cane and Elena) from Holland. We enjoyed a good conversation.

Retired early to my room as it was a long and hot walking day. The WCW were staying at different accommodation in the town of Gambassi Terme, so we agreed to connect in the morning to walk the next leg together.

Via – Day 2: Gambassi Terme – San Gimignano

Total Distance Walked: 14.7 KM

Breakfast was provided at the hostel, but it was pretty meager…and the coffee was cold (staff prepare everything the night before and apparently the thermos didn’t function well!). With everything packed up I walked up the hill to the town – about 15 minutes away. I had some time before meeting the WCW and I found a lovely bar (that’s what coffee shops are called in Italy) and practiced my very limited Italian…”Vorrei un cappuccino e un cornetto al pistacchio, per favore.” I sat at a table in the piazza with a lovely view of the country-side. A few minutes later, I hear someone shouting “aiuto” (help) and several people went running down the path by the ravine. From what I could gather, a man had fallen and was having difficulty getting up…but he was OK.

After coffee, I wandered some of the streets of the town waiting to meet Kathy, Pat, Dagmar and Robyn to start our hike for the day.

Street views of Gambassi Terme

We started our journey down the hill, along a roadway for a short bit, then on to gravel paths that led us through vineyards, olive groves and wineries.

This was a day of getting to know the group a little more and enjoying the beautiful Tuscan landscape. Although it was a shorter distance day, it felt a little long. Several rolling hills through vineyards and farms, but nothing too difficult. We stopped for lunch along side a vineyard and the group shared some cheese, meat and delicious Italian cookies since I hadn’t replenished my lunch supplies. Such a generous group!

I discovered that the tall skinny trees we see are cypress trees, while the ones that look like stalks of broccoli are pruned Monterrey pines.

Soon we could see our destination in the distance.

After checking into the hotel (Hotel La Cisterna) and having a shower, I met Dagmar for a walk around this interesting town, enjoying the views of the surrounding country side and exploring many tunnels and walkways. I was surprised to see Max (from the hostel) and we had a brief chat. Dagmar and I decided to pause for refreshments and enjoyed an aperol spritz on a patio. We met up with the rest of the group for further exploration and later settled on a small local restaurant for dinner…fresh pici (like thick spaghetti) with wild boar sauce accompanied by a tasty Vernazza wine, selected by Robyn. After dinner, it was time for gelato at a shop that claims they have the best gelato in the world. While it was tasty (Raspberry Rosemary and Cremma for me), I am not convinced it is the best. The search will continue throughout my stops in Italy!

Another amazing day on the Via Francigena!

Via – Day 4: Colle Val d’Elsa to Monteriggioni

Total Distance Walked: 20.9 km

The morning showed remnants of the storm on the horizon, and a beautiful sunrise. I enjoyed a great breakfast at the guest house then walked down the street to meet the WCW.

Our plan was to walk along the Elsa River – we had read that it is a beautiful walk with turquoise waters and small waterfalls. We exited the walled hamlet and three of us walked down the stairs to the new town area. Dagmar’s ankle was giving her some grief (from a recent injury) so she and Pat took the elevator down and we were to meet them in the town below. It took a little while, but we eventually found each other!

We got a little turned around trying to find the river path and a local tried to explain it to us (in Italian). Eventually, we found it and started walking along the river. From the torrential rains from last night, the river was flowing fast, and high. When we got to the first river crossing, we watched the young women that we met the day before going across. Normally there are big flat rocks that you walk across, but they were submerged in the flowing, muddy river. The “youngsters” had taken their shoes off and were gingerly stepping across. Considering they were probably 35 or 40 years younger that our group and there were 1 or 2 more river crossings after this one, we made a team decision to backtrack to the alternate route that would take us through the city of Colle. I am convinced that was the right choice. We had another view of the river from a bridge as we exited the city. There were no turquoise waters on this day!

After leaving the town of Colle, we passed by a site of ancient thermal baths from Etruscan-Roman times. Although someone had taken a dip, we passed on that experience. It was a serene area. Not sure what the critter was, but he was enjoying the warm water!

The hike today took us through hills, woods and meadows and through the small town of Strove (pop. 84) where we stopped for a rest. Soon we could see the hilltop town of Monteriggionni (and yes another hill to get to the town!).

Of course, climbing the steep hill to Monteriggioni meant having a gelato before my walking partners were driven to Siena where they would take a rest day. After checking in to the lovely B&B (called Rooms and Wine), I had some lunch, explored the town and then had the complimentary glass of wine at the organic wine store owned by the B&B.

This was a treat after the small bathrooms in previous accom.

Later I bought a ticket to walk the walls and enjoy a lovely sunset. Like other towns, by 6 pm most of the visitors had left which made it very pleasant to enjoy the views. Another wander around the streets, then I settled in for a restful sleep.

Via – Day 5: Monteriggioni to Siena

Total Distance Walked: 24.7 km

After a restful sleep, I found my breakfast box on a hook outside my room (named La Piazza). I enjoyed the pastry and coffee and packed up the rest for my lunch!

The exit from the town was beautiful and quiet at 7:15 am. Down the road, then on to a variety of paths.

Along the trail through some fields and forests, I came across a man, sitting in a chair by the path . He had a rifle in his lap (I didn’t take a picture!). After I passed him, I heard dogs barking and men shouting from an area I had passed by a few minutes before. I believe they were hunting wild boar (’tis the season). My guess is the man along the path was there to deal with any boars that came his way. At least that is the story I am telling! And I saw boar prints along the path.

Further along the path, an abandoned farm house stood near a castle tower called Castello della Chiocciola built in the 14th c.

I stopped at an eclectic “local” cafe set up for pilgrims in La Villa. Everything was “by donation”. I enjoyed a cappuccino and made use of their washroom, which was very well stocked. It is so great to see some locals supporting the people on the trail. There were picnic tables next door and an electric vehicle charging station! The sign on the chair in the photo below translates to: “At the important crossroads of the Via, there are no signs.”

I walked along a rocky paths, and quiet country roads past herds of goats that moved in unison, with their bells clanging and a little later a deer crossed the road not far in front of me. It was a peaceful walk. I met three equestrians along the section that took me past an obelisk that marks an 18th c. tunneling project to drain a large marsh that was believed to be responsible for malaria outbreaks. The project built 2 meter diameter tunnel of hand-cut bricks that goes for 2.2 kms!

There were sections of very muddy paths, a remnant of the recent rains in the area. I followed the ridges along more farmland and a small community. I was getting close to Siena.

The last 1.5 kilometers to Sienna was steep uphill, had to stop to giggle at the house that had a Route 66 drive through sign on their patio – and a longer stop for a rest at the top to enjoy the view of old town Siena on the horizon! On the way to my accommodation, I passed the hotel where the WCW were staying and entered the Old Town through the large gate, Porta Camollia. I checked into my hotel and had a bit of a rest before meeting up with Kathy, Pat and Dagmar for a quick glass of wine before they went on to their reserved time to tour the Duomo.

I was quite tired, so I opted to pick up some groceries to make a little picnic dinner in my hotel room, knowing that I would be back in Siena in two days.

Via – Day 6: Siena to Luciagno

Total distance travelled: 24.8 km

Starting out on my own today, but I hoped to catch up to the WCW down the trail. It was a quiet walk out of Siena, once I found my way to the Porta Roma, the main gate on the south side of the old town.

The country roads I followed provided views of farmlands, olive groves and vineyards. At this time of the year, most of the crops had been harvested so the change of the soil from the rich red dirt to Crete Senesi, gray clay-like soil was noticable.

After about 7 kms, the path went past an auto-wrecking yard, then it followed beside a busy highway and through and industrial area…mostly car dealerships. I found a small cafe and stopped for a mid-morning cappuccino.

After following the road for a short time, the path veered off to a quieter environment of fields. I was on the look-out for my walking buddies, knowing that they would likely be joining the path around this area. Soon, I could see four walkers ahead of me…and I hurried to catch up!

I could see them in the distance

We stopped by a small village, La Grancia di Cuna, built in the 12th c. One of the buildings was formerly a pilgrim hospital and the villiage itself is an fortified farm where which once held the reserves of wheat destined to the Republic of Siena. There was a lovely cafe, where we stopped for cold drinks and snacks. It turns out that it had only opened the day before. We hope they get lots of traffic. Their pastries looked amazing (and tasted great). Some of the local cats came by to say hi.

We continued along the path, among the harvested fields up and down the rolling hills. There was some confusion on how to get to our accommodation in Lucignano d’Ariba, but we figured it out! Our accommodation: Hotel Borgo Antico.

After a short rest, we convened on the upper patio for some cold beers and to watch the sunset. Dinner was served in the dining room which boasted an amazing curved brick ceiling. This night we celebrated the arrival of Dagmar’s new grandson.

A great day…time for rest.

Via Day 7: Lucignano to Buonconvento

Total distance walked: 14.3 km

After a great breakfast at our hotel, the group hit the trail for our final day of walking together. We were advised to take a short cut through the vineyard and field to get back to the Via Francigena.

We walked along the path past farms and beside railroad tracks, then stopped for coffee at Ponte D’Ariba.

Leaving the coffee shop, we were going to cross the Ariba River on the new pedestrian bridge, but repair work was underway. We had to walk across the Via Cassia automobile bridge instead. Thankfully it wasn’t too busy.

Next stop of interest was Centro Cresti which has had an interesting history. It has been a nursery school, housing for refugees and since 1983, a pilgrim hostel.

The path to Buonconvento headed uphill among the fields and towards the top the wind became quite strong. so we were often walking with our heads down…and holding on to our hats. Found some interesting sculptures along the way.

Finally, we headed downhill, out of the wind, and into the small town of Buonconvento. It was very quiet, perhaps at the end of their season.

The group noted that their accommodation is another 2+ kms away and uphill most of the way. They were able to arrange for a ride while we enjoyed one last Aperol Spritz together on the patio of a local bar.

I walked to a local hotel where my luggage was delivered. It is close to the train station, thankfully. We bid farewell to each other, and I wished them well on their continuing journey to Rome. What a pleasure to meet these four kind and accomplished women and have then include me in their plans for a few days. I will miss them.

This has been a sometimes challenging, but mostly enjoyable week. I’m tired, but in a good way. And so grateful to have experienced the Tuscan landscapes, interesting towns and interesting people along the way – incredible.

Total kms walked in 7 days: 142.3 Km

My Italian experiences continue as I hop the train to Siena. Watch for future posts of my experiences in Florence, Siena, Pisa, Lucca, Cinque Terre and Bologna. Thanks for reading!